Planning a trip to the Périgord region of France? Here’s your complete, local-written guide to making the most of your visit.

The Perigord, more widely known as the Dordogne, is one of the most enchanting regions of France. With medieval villages, golden limestone houses, winding rivers, prehistoric caves and world-famous gastronomy, it’s a destination that feels both timeless and full of life.

But the area is large, rural and wonderfully varied. As someone who lives in the north Dordogne, I know how overwhelming planning can feel when you first arrive here. This guide brings together local tips, insider advice and essential things to know before visiting the Périgord, so you can explore confidently and experience the best of the region.

What Exactly Is the Périgord?

The Dordogne department is traditionally divided into four historic areas, each with its own character:

Périgord Vert (Green Périgord)

Forests, valleys and rivers. Known for Brantôme, Nontron, and the beautiful countryside. Ideal for nature lovers.

Périgord Noir (Black Périgord)

The most famous tourist area, home to Sarlat, La Roque-Gageac, Domme, Lascaux and the Dordogne Valley’s iconic châteaux.

Périgord Blanc (White Périgord)

Centred around Périgueux and known for its Roman history, creamy limestone and bustling food markets.

Périgord Pourpre (Purple Périgord)

Wine country, including Bergerac, Monbazillac and the Dordogne’s vineyards.

Travel Tip: If it’s your first time visiting, choose one base and explore from there. The region is big and driving everywhere will quickly get tiring.

Best Time to Visit the Périgord

April–June: Perfect weather and fewer crowds

Spring is one of the best times to visit; everything is green, gardens are blooming, and the climate is mild.

July–August: Peak season

Expect higher prices, busy attractions and full restaurants in tourist hotspots like Sarlat and Beynac. Book activities and dining well in advance.

September–October: Warm, calm and beautiful

Autumn is magical in the Périgord. Vineyards turn golden, the crowds thin out, and the weather is still warm.

Winter: Quiet and peaceful

Many attractions close for the season, but villages, markets and walks are lovely. A great time for cosy food trips.

Travel Tip: If you’re visiting châteaux or caves, check seasonal opening hours, they vary widely.

How to Get Around the Périgord

You’ll Need a Car

Public transport is limited, especially between villages. A car gives you flexibility and allows you to explore at your own pace.

Driving Tips for Visitors

• Roads are rural, winding and often single-track.
• Avoid relying on GPS only; bring a backup map for remote areas. If you have an iPhone, use Google Maps rather than Apple Maps. I deleted Apple Maps as it took me to non-existent places so often.
• Petrol stations close earlier than you may expect in smaller towns. A lot now have 24-hour service if paying by card; however, some only allow you to get petrol when self-filling if you have 150€ in your bank account. Please be aware that it may take the full 150€ until it is no longer pending, and then it will be returned to your card.
• Market days cause congestion; plan around them if possible.

Parking

Most villages have free parking slightly outside the centre. Arrive early for popular spots like Sarlat, La Roque-Gageac or Brantôme.

Top Périgord Travel Tips (From a Local)

Plan your days around the weather

Hot midday sun in summer makes castle climbing and village exploring harder. Visit outdoor attractions early or late, then enjoy a long lunch.

Book restaurants in advance in peak season

Small village restaurants often sell out days before, especially in July and August.

Don’t try to see everything in one trip

Choose a theme for each day:

• Châteaux day
• River day: canoes + picnics
• Market day
• Caves & prehistory

This helps you explore without rushing.

Carry cash for markets and small cafés

Many places now take cards, but smaller food stalls or rural cafés may still be cash-only.

Learn the local market days

They are one of the highlights of staying in the Périgord. Popular markets:

• Sarlat – Saturday
• Périgueux – Wednesday & Saturday
• Brantôme – Friday
• Ribérac – Friday (one of the biggest)

Bring sturdy shoes

Expect cobbles, slopes and uneven paths.

Visit at least one cave

The Périgord is world-famous for prehistoric art.
Top picks: Lascaux IV, Grotte de Rouffignac, Gouffre de Proumeyssac.

Make time for the rivers

Canoeing the Dordogne or Vézère is unforgettable. Many routes are family-friendly.

What to Eat in the Périgord

The region is known for rich, delicious food. Must-tries include:

• Duck confit & magret de canard
• Walnuts and walnut oil
• Cabécou goat cheese
• Périgord strawberries
• Bergerac and Monbazillac wines
• Truffles (winter)
• Foie gras (if you eat it)

Travel Tip: Lunchtime menus are often much cheaper than dinner, take advantage!

Suggested Itineraries by Périgord Region

The Dordogne is beautifully varied, and each historic Périgord area offers something different. Here are curated itineraries so you can build the perfect trip based on where you’re staying.

Périgord Vert Itinerary (North Dordogne)

Best for nature, peaceful villages and riverside walks.

Perfect 3–4 Day Périgord Vert Plan

Day 1: Brantôme & the Dronne River

• Explore Brantôme Abbey
• Take a boat ride on the river
• Walk the riverside gardens
• Optional: visit the troglodyte caves behind the abbey

Day 2: Villages & Forests of the Green Périgord

• Saint-Jean-de-Côle (one of France’s most beautiful villages)
• Château de Jumilhac
• Coffee stop in Thiviers (famous for foie gras and markets)

Day 3: Nontron & Craft Workshops

• Visit the Nontron knife-making workshops
• Explore Pôle Expérimental des Métiers d’Art
• Afternoon walk around the lake of Saint-Estèphe

Day 4 (Optional): North Dordogne Hidden Gems

• Piégut-Pluviers market (Wednesday)
• Château de Puyguilhem
• Grottes de Villars (prehistoric art + natural formations)
• Riberac market (Friday)
• Aubeterre-Sur-Dronne just across the Charente border is beautiful village

Périgord Noir Itinerary (South-East Dordogne)

The classics: castles, caves, medieval villages and river views.

Perfect 3–4 Day Périgord Noir Plan

Day 1: Sarlat-la-Canéda

• Wander the old town
• Try local specialities at the market
• Guided night tour in summer for beautiful lighting

Day 2: Dordogne Valley Villages

• La Roque-Gageac
• Castelnaud-la-Chapelle (castle + incredible views)
• Beynac-et-Cazenac
• Scenic boat ride (gabarre) on the river

Day 3: Prehistory & the Vézère Valley

• Lascaux IV
• Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère (beautiful riverside village)
• Roque Saint-Christophe or Grotte de Rouffignac

Day 4 (Optional): Domme & Gardens

• Domme viewpoint
• Jardins de Marqueyssac (candlelit evenings in summer)

Périgord Blanc Itinerary (Central Dordogne)

Roman history, architecture and gourmet food.

Perfect 2–3 Day Périgord Blanc Plan

Day 1: Périgueux Old Town

• Saint-Front Cathedral
• Vesunna Roman Museum
• Wander the Renaissance streets
• Lunch at a local bistro

Day 2: Castles & Countryside

• Château de Hautefort (spectacular gardens)
• Explore the surrounding countryside villages
• Optional: walk around the nearby Étang du Coucou

Day 3 (Optional): Markets & Food Trails

• Périgueux Wednesday/Saturday market
• Truffle or walnut farm visit (seasonal)

Périgord Pourpre Itinerary (South-West Dordogne)

Wine country, vineyards, and riverside beauty around Bergerac.

Perfect 2–3 Day Périgord Pourpre Plan

Day 1: Bergerac Old Town & Wine Museum

• Explore the medieval old town
• Learn about Monbazillac wine
• Take a river cruise on the Dordogne

Day 2: Vineyards & Châteaux

• Château de Monbazillac (wine tasting + panoramic view)
• Château de Bridoire (great for families)
• Afternoon vineyard tour and tasting

Day 3 (Optional): Issigeac & Local Markets

• Visit Issigeac medieval village (Sunday market is fantastic)
• Combine with a walk or picnic in the surrounding countryside

Essential Packing Tips

• Comfortable walking shoes
• Reusable water bottle
• Sunhat and SPF (even in early autumn)
• Lightweight raincoat
• Cash for markets
• Plug adapter (France uses Type C and E)

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Périgord suitable for families?

Absolutely — canoeing, châteaux, gardens, and caves make it one of the best family destinations in France.

Is English widely spoken?

Yes in tourist areas; less so in rural villages. Basic French phrases are appreciated.

Is the Dordogne expensive?

Less than Provence or the Riviera. Food, accommodation and activities are good value outside peak season.

How many days do you need?

3–14 days, depending on how much you want to explore. I have lived here for 6 years and haven’t explored it all yet.

Final Tips for an Unforgettable Périgord Trip

Take your time, enjoy long meals, wander slowly through villages and let yourself get lost in the quiet charm of the Dordogne. The magic of the Périgord is found not only in the famous landmarks but in the simple moments, riverside picnics, sunflower fields, evening markets and medieval streets glowing at sunset.